

Servo reciever board
Soldering the components onto the pcb is pretty simple by design. I used exclusively THT components as to make it as accessible as possible to anyone who wanted to construct a working set of ears.
- Size
- 34.9 × 46.2 mm
- Copper layers
- 2
- Thickness
- 1.6 mm
- Parts
- 12
- Nets
- 20
- Pads
- 49
- Tracks, vias
- 88, 3
- Pours
- 1
- Routed
- Yes
- KiCad
- KiCad 9.0 (file 20241229)
- Created
- 12 Jul 2026
- Updated
- 29 Aug 2026
Overview
Servo reciever board is an open-source printed circuit board by Asterisk-Projects, from the Asterisk-Projects/CatearTronics repository on GitHub, published under the GPL-3.0 licence. It is a 2-layer board of 34.9 × 46.2 mm with 12 parts on 20 nets, routed with 88 tracks and 3 vias.
It is built around the TP4057 and IRLZ34N. Its parts include 3 ICs, 3 connectors, 2 capacitors, 2 resistors and 1 transistor. It belongs with the robots and motor control boards of this library.
Main components
2README
pcb_files/README.mdPhysical Assembly
Index
PCB Assembly/Soldering guide
Esp32-C6
DFR0952 Boost Module
4.6k Ohm Resistor
IRLZ34N Logic Level MOSFET
JST Connectors
SPDT Slide Switch
Final
Bonus - Pin Snip Montage
Crimping
Installing Assembled PCB in 3D printed Case
PCB Assembly/Soldering guide
Soldering the components onto the pcb is pretty simple by design. I used exclusively THT components as to make it as accessible as possible to anyone who wanted to construct a working set of ears.
That being said, if this is your first time with soldering, or you want to sanity check your progress, feel free to look below;
Steps by Component(s)
Esp32-C6
Strangest/trickiest part first, soldering the esp32 onto the board, when some of the pads aren't designed to be THT
Stealing the idea from some pi portable projects, the pcb has a place to line up and then solder pads directly, as if they were THT components, minus needing the pins
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/6ff89706-0427-4854-b957-33d2748519fc
- Line up the esp32 pin holes with the PCB. Use the battery pads as a guide, and match them with the battery holes on the pcb.
If you can see clearly through the pin holes on the pcb, that should be a good rule of thumb for having the solder make a proper connection
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/05a7b818-2d18-4018-bafd-15a15622c9a0
- secure the esp32 to the board in some way so it doesn't move whilst soldering (I recommend capton tape)
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/03d54e9b-8dcf-416b-b4e0-458c89ab1afb
- Following that, solder the esp32 pads to the pcb by letting solder coat through the hole onto the pad. This will help keep the esp32 in place.
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/d8faf033-5a61-4b14-b7ea-404d335dd54e
3.5) Bonus step, at this point if you want to use a multimeter to make sure the ground pin on the ESP32-C6 is matching the pcb pad, now's a good time to do so
Topdown Solder view:
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/c2cd6672-b03a-478b-8b81-bdf5427299b8
Close up on Solder view:
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/e28facec-703d-47a0-a3c1-61f9552d93e6
- Repeat this process for each pin hole on the esp32 on the board. If the solder flows straight through you can reasonably assume you've got a good connection
If in doubt for the esp32 pins, you can always use a multimeter to check continuity
DFR0952 Boost Module
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/20d25132-c803-4f49-b0af-fe24123dfbe5
There are 2 ways to solder the Boost Module to the board. Either 1, Soldering pins to the boost module, and then soldering that to the pcb. Or 2, Similar to the method above lining up the holes with the pads on the pcb and melting solder through both pcbs
I prefer 2, as it keeps everything flush with the board
Soldering Pins to the module and the pcb
-
Solder pins to the Module first
-
Solder those pins through to the pcb
Soldering straight to the pcb
- Line up the Boost module pins with the pcb, as before if you can see clearly through the pin holes on the pcb, that should be a good rule of thumb for having the solder make a proper connection
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/08f4d33c-642c-415e-a15c-a5704ee6e2ea
- Secure the boost module to the board (I once again recommend capton tape)
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/1d07b14f-766c-47ba-81a9-1c2fe7a4f486
- Solder through the bottom of the board through to the pin
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/4063684e-56e4-4524-bf9f-1d977909b193
- Turn the board over and reflow the solder on the top of the module to the board below it
4.6k Ohm Resistor
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/2640912d-a5d6-4e48-8f24-30c52ad5f29a
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/9ac71b3d-dca0-4e95-a607-c60646f1eb5f
This is just a basic THT Soldering process
Poke through the hole, bend the pins against the pcb solder it in
IRLZ34N Logic Level MOSFET
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/1a070582-4408-457d-8ebb-37c1ecead1be
Same as for the other Misc THT Components,
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/df840dbd-ea59-47ca-b1ab-33e0bf02b99a
Lay the Mosfet flat against the PCB, bend the pins back, secure the mosfet body itself in place if needed (Capton tapes a good choice (not sponsered, just a fan)), Solder
JST Connectors
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b6d3261b-38b1-4b1d-b681-efd01017a623
Same as the other components mentioned before
Slot them in on the components side of the board, secure in place (Capton Tape: The GOATed Choice), solder in
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cc4804e8-4b09-44fc-ad21-e733dcd569e4
SPDT Slide Switch
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/bfb085b4-0174-4165-b58a-63deaa4b51ec
Similar to the other components, but differs in which specific micro slide switch you're using
the ones I used are crap ones from Amazon, and they need to be folded over like such before soldering in
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/3c21431f-e782-4019-95dd-feee480f735e
Depending on how flimsy the switch feels in that, you can then hot glue it down if neccessary, and then solder in place
Final
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/8b770aa5-c993-4b1f-8861-bc5e2a48de30
After everythings soldered and assembled, the final product should look something like the following
Bonus - Pin Snip Montage
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/3897d042-93ec-40b2-8cee-4692d19c5c93
Crimping
Servos need a specific configuration in order to work, From left to right, 5V, GND, Signal

- Start with the standard dupont connector

- Cut ends off of servos

- Crimp 'em

-
Put in right slots
-
???
-
Profit.
Installing Assembled PCB in 3D printed Case
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/94fb8a15-f5aa-41da-9fcb-0e23103d66a9
- Print the 3D case in TPU
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/12c65012-48b3-47f3-8964-cc56bbcdafd9
- Press the pcb down into the spacer as seen in the above clip, and move it into the enclosure
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/45481696-18ee-453b-8a8f-0636671e7eb6
- Use a pair of Pliers - or honestly the first time I just used my finger nail - to reposition the swithc and make sure the switch is seated correctly
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/a0defc09-b446-4916-8d48-d20024c9364a
- Align the USB-C hole
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/1194d335-ad8c-4d83-bdac-c74246ebf11d
- You should be good to go
Setting up the Servos for Attachment
After 3d printing everything, you'll need to attach the servos, in a way that should be fairly self explanatory.
You'll need to first install a hobby servos into the Flexible Servo holder
and then install a second servo into the Servo Attacher,
Before attaching the second servo into the first servo.
Then, you can attach the Ear print out to the Second Servo
To demonstrate this, here are some lazy diagrams
Attaching Ear to Headphones
Once everythings ready for attaching to your headphones/headband, you can begin actually doing that
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/96e62584-7f58-4617-b01d-8973c007e98b
- Attach the pcb holder to one side of your headphones, and then secure it using the button strap. It should function similar to buttoning up anything else, don't be afraid to stretch the button strap in order to get it to connect. It's TPU and the design kinda relys on it being flexible
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/0991a19b-679e-4a93-93d0-c458842c3f06
- Insert the battery into the PCB Holder, and plug it in
Note: You can do this prior to attaching it to your headphones, I just didn't
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/d4e155b1-ebcd-4a0a-8a05-d827ba0f0d81
- Insert your servos into the pcb holder. The middle connector is for vertical movement (the servo attached to the ear), the connector on the side is for horizontal movement (the servo attached to headphones)
Note: You can do this after to attaching it to your headphones, I just didn't
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/69542e6d-8169-4057-b700-15f20d7e9b32
-
Finally, attach the Servo holder to the headphones using the same button strap method that was used for the pcb holder.
-
Repeat on the other side
-
Congratulations, your remote control ears are mounted and ready to use
Parts
12| Qty | Value | Footprint | References |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | C | Capacitor_SMD:C_0805_2012Metric | C1, C2 |
| 1 | Battery Connection | Connector_JST:JST_XH_S2B-XH-A-1_1x02_P2.50mm_Horizontal | J1 |
| 1 | IRLZ34N | Package_TO_SOT_THT:TO-220-3_Horizontal_TabDown | Q1 |
| 1 | R | Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric | R2 |
| 1 | R | Resistor_THT:R_Axial_DIN0207_L6.3mm_D2.5mm_P10.16mm_Horizontal | R1 |
| 1 | SW_SPDT | custom_components:sdpt_switch_8.5mm_4mm_pole_4mm | SW1 |
| 1 | Servo X | Connector_JST:JST_XH_S3B-XH-A-1_1x03_P2.50mm_Horizontal | J2 |
| 1 | Servo Y | Connector_JST:JST_XH_S3B-XH-A-1_1x03_P2.50mm_Horizontal | J3 |
| 1 | TP4057 | Package_TO_SOT_SMD:TSOT-23-6 | U3 |
| 1 | ~ | custom_components:XIAO Esp32c6 | U2 |
| 1 | ~ | custom_components:Miniboost Module | U1 |
Questions
How big is the Servo reciever board PCB?
It measures 34.9 × 46.2 mm and has 2 copper layers, 1.6 mm thick.
What parts does the Servo reciever board use?
12 parts, built around the TP4057 and IRLZ34N. The full list of its parts is on this page, with links to each part's symbol and footprint where PCBKit's library has them.
Where can I download the Servo reciever board KiCad files?
From the Asterisk-Projects/CatearTronics repository on GitHub, at the commit this page was made from: the board is pcb_files/servo_reciever_board.kicad_pcb and its schematic pcb_files/servo_reciever_board.kicad_sch. PCBKit opens the board in the browser, with nothing to install.
Can I use the Servo reciever board design in my own project?
Its repository publishes it under the GPL-3.0 licence: you may reuse it on that licence's terms (keep the author's notice, and for a copyleft licence share your changes alike).
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