2 layers68.8 × 53.6 mm
ZArduino
zmaker/arduino_cookbook
gli sketch del nuovo progetto Arduino Cookbook e dei video di YouTube
46 parts269
2 layers69.9 × 106.7 mm
LED Strand Interface
thismatters/Fairy-Light-ControllerInitially when we bought fairy lights (sorry for the amazon link, I hope it stays valid for a while) they came with crappy wall warts which had to be plugged and unplugged daily; these wall warts were of such poor…
- Size
- 69.9 × 106.7 mm
- Copper layers
- 2
- Thickness
- 1.6 mm
- Parts
- 37
- Nets
- 43
- Pads
- 150
- Tracks, vias
- 402, 0
- Pours
- 3
- Routed
- Yes
- KiCad
- KiCad 4
- Created
- 14 Apr 2018
- Updated
- 14 Apr 2018
Overview
LED Strand Interface is an open-source printed circuit board by thismatters, from the thismatters/Fairy-Light-Controller repository on GitHub, published under the MIT licence. It is a 2-layer board of 69.9 × 106.7 mm with 37 parts on 43 nets, routed with 402 tracks and 0 vias.
It is built around the ATMEGA328P-PU. Its parts include 11 resistors, 9 connectors, 8 transistors, 4 capacitors and 2 ICs. It belongs with the interfaces and adapters boards and the AVR (ATmega, ATtiny) boards of this library.
Main components
1README
README.mdFairy Light Controller
Initially when we bought fairy lights (sorry for the amazon link, I hope it stays valid for a while) they came with crappy wall warts which had to be plugged and unplugged daily; these wall warts were of such poor quality that the barrel plug which recieved the light strand would inevitably break. Totally unacceptable. The goal of this project is to provide an easy interface for controlling and powering many strands of LED fairy lights.
Features
- 40 Watt Power supply,
- ATMega328P,
- IR Reciever and Remote Control [also works with a little white apple remote if you have one laying around],
- Barrel Plugs for 8 light strands,
- Laser cut acrylic case.
What's included
- Code for the ATMega328P,
- KiCAD files for the control board (OSHPark project for this board),
- Bill of Materials (below),
- SVG files for cutting the case parts.
Bill of Materials
Here is what you'll need to order to build this thing. I generally order the parts from a few different suppliers due to availability and price so bear with me. You'll also need a board (obvs), you can order some from OSHPark by following the link above, or you can etch your own. Your choice!
| Part # | Qty | Reference | Description | MFR # (link) | Supplier | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1 | C1 | Capacitor 100uF (SMD-1206) | GRM31CD80J107ME39L | Mouser | |
| 2 | 1 | C2 | Capacitor 10uF (SMD-0805) | GRM21BC81C106ME15L | Mouser | |
| 3 | 1 | C3 | Capacitor 100nF (SMD-0805) | 100nF 50V 0805 | Tayda | If you order 100 of these they will last you a long time. |
| 4 | 1 | C4 | Capacitor 1uF (Radial D5L11) | 105CKR100M | Mouser | |
| 5 | 8 | CON1--CON8 | Barrel Jack | KLDX-SMT-0202-AP | Mouser | These are sized to fit the fairy lights linked below. |
| 6 | 1 | IC1 | Microcontroller | ATMEGA328P-P | Tayda | An Arduino chip without the Arduino board. You'll have to have a means to program it (an Arduino board will work nicely for that) |
| 7 | 1 | P1 | Connector 4POS | B4PS-VH(LF) (SN) | Digi-key | Receive the power onto the board. |
| 8 | 8 | Q1--Q8 | NPN Darlinton Pair (SOT-223) | FZT600TA | Mouser | |
| 9 | 8 | R1--R8 | Resistor 0.27 Ohm (Thru-hole) | MOSX1CT52RR27J | Mouser | |
| 10 | 1 | R9 | Resistor 0 Ohm (SMD-0805) | 0 Ohm 1/8W 1% 0805 | Tayda | If you order 100 of these they will last you a long time. |
| 11 | 1 | R10 | Resistor 100 Ohm (SMD-0805) | 100 Ohm 1/8W 1% 0805 | Tayda | If you order 100 of these they will last you a long time. |
| 12 | 1 | R11 | Resistor 10k Ohm (SMD-0805) | 10K Ohm 1/8W 1% 0805 | Tayda | If you order 100 of these they will last you a long time. |
| 13 | 2 | RR1--RR2 | Resistor Array (Bussed) 10k Ohm (SIP-9) | 4609X-101-103LF | Mouser | 8 Resistors |
| 14 | 1 | U1 | IR Reciever (38 khz) | TSOP34438 | Mouser | |
| 15 | 1 | X1 | Crystal Oscillator (with Caps) | CSTLS8M00G53-A0 | Mouser | |
| 16 | 1 | NA | Power Supply 40W | EPS-45-5-C | Mouser | |
| 17 | 10 | NA | Connector Terminal Crimp-ons | SVH-41T-P1.1 | Digi-key | Those little silver things you have to smash onto your wires. |
| 18 | 2 | NA | Connector Housing 4POS | VHR-4N | Digi-key | To get power from the power supply to the board |
| 19 | 1 | NA | Connector Housing 3POS | VHR-3N | Digi-key | To get power from the wall to the power supply |
| 20 | 1 | NA | Remote Control | COM-11759 | Sparkfun | The software also supports the little white Apple remote control |
| 21 | 1 | NA | Power Cord | stayonline.com | The power supply insists on being grounded, and I am happy to oblige it. You can use an old PC power cable with one end cut off (choose wisely), or you can order to length. | |
| 22 | 8 | NA | Fairy Lights | B00I7M7C40 | Amazon | It is pretty vital to get the ones with the barrel power connector that matches the barrel jacks (Item 5). Minimum 1, maximum 8 |
| 23 | 1 | NA | Battery for Remote Control | CR2025 | Lots of places | You figure it out |
| 24 | 1 | NA | 28 pin DIP IC Socket | 28 pin DIP IC Socket | Tayda | This is what you'll actually solder to the board. Cram the ATMega328 into this. |
The Case
The case is cut from 0.177 inch thick acyrlic sheet using a laser cutter. The specific laser cutter I used is at the ATX Hackerspace; it does not compensate for kerf so the files themselves compensate for the laser width. The case parts should fit together snugly so no adhesive is needed for assembly, although the little bits for wall mounting will need to be bonded onto the bottom so a little cyanoacrylate adhesive will be useful.
Parts
37| Qty | Value | Footprint | References |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | 0.27 | Resistors_ThroughHole:Resistor_Horizontal_RM10mm | R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8 |
| 8 | BARREL_JACK | smd_parts:KLDX-SMT | CON1, CON2, CON3, CON4, CON5, CON6, CON7, CON8 |
| 8 | Darl_NPN_ps | smd_parts:SOT-223-Transistor | Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, Q8 |
| 1 | 0 | Resistors_SMD:R_0805_HandSoldering | R9 |
| 1 | 100 | Resistors_SMD:R_0805_HandSoldering | R10 |
| 1 | 100U | Capacitors_SMD:C_1206_HandSoldering | C1 |
| 1 | 100n | Capacitors_SMD:C_0805_HandSoldering | C3 |
| 1 | 10U | Capacitors_SMD:C_0805_HandSoldering | C2 |
| 1 | 10k | Resistors_SMD:R_0805_HandSoldering | R11 |
| 1 | 1u | smd_parts:C_Radial_D5_L11_P2.5_bigpad | C4 |
| 1 | ATMEGA328P-P | smd_parts:DIP-28__300 | IC1 |
| 1 | CONN_4 | wafer:Socket_VH-RM3-96mm_Lock_4pin_straight | P1 |
| 1 | CRYSTAL_WITH_CAPS | smd_parts:Crystal_Vertical_3Pin | X1 |
| 1 | IR_RECEIVER | smd_parts:TSOPxx | U1 |
| 1 | PD_RR8_10k | smd_parts:Resistor_Array_SIP8 | RR1 |
| 1 | PU_RR8_10k | smd_parts:Resistor_Array_SIP8 | RR2 |
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Questions
How big is the LED Strand Interface PCB?
It measures 69.9 × 106.7 mm and has 2 copper layers, 1.6 mm thick.
What parts does the LED Strand Interface use?
37 parts, built around the ATMEGA328P-PU. The full list of its parts is on this page, with links to each part's symbol and footprint where PCBKit's library has them.
Where can I download the LED Strand Interface KiCad files?
From the thismatters/Fairy-Light-Controller repository on GitHub, at the commit this page was made from: the board is hardware/LED_Strand_Interface.kicad_pcb. PCBKit opens the board in the browser, with nothing to install.
Can I use the LED Strand Interface design in my own project?
Its repository publishes it under the MIT licence: you may reuse it on that licence's terms (keep the author's notice, and for a copyleft licence share your changes alike).