Split thing

   you may want to do this after part two, read all the steps then decide for yourself 
   which direction you want to take.

   you will need to solder the female jst connectors to the battery pads on the bottom 
   of each xiao. NOTE! that many jst connectors may be backwards, so if the wires do not 
   match the wires on your battery when plugged in you should be able to unclip them
   and swap them so that they do.

   mock up the final build so you can trim your jst connectors to fit as well as possible. 
   i probably could have cut mine shorter, but that's fine.

   solder em on! the pads are small and close together so be sure they will not short, 
   and be sure they will not block the pin headers!

   clip the pin headers included with your xiao so you 
   have the following lengths (for each board!):

         1x - 4 pins long

         1x - 5 pins long

         5x - 1 pin long

   remove the plastic bits from 3 of the 1 pin bits, **SAVE THE PLASTIC!** 
   the metal pin piece for these three can be tossed.

   solder the headers on so that:

         on the left side, from top to bottom you have 
         1 pin, 1 space, then 5 pins soldered.

         on the right side, from top to bottom you have 
         1 space, 1 pin, 1 more space, and then 4 pins soldered.

   ADD THE EXTRA PLASTIC TO THE TOP AND BOTTOM PINS ON THE LEFT, 
   AND THE MIDDLE PIN ON THE RIGHT! THE EXTRA HEIGHT IS NECESSARY!

   ensure all the pins are straight by mocking it all together 
   with the pcb when you solder the pins to the dev board.

   once you have the jst connector and pin headers soldered 
   to the dev board, solder it onto the pcb!
   note that 3 pins will be UNPOPULATED! the board is completely 
   reversible as long as you follow the steps above.

   now, feel free to solder your choc switches of choice onto the board.

   set your soldering iron to just above the melting temp of
   whatever you printed your case in, i think i did about 10C over.

   choose a tip that you can poke into the heat inserts and it 
   will kind of pick them up, without protruding too far through them.

   use pliers or something along those lines to put each heat insert 
   onto the soldering iron, then push them into each of the heat insert 
   holes till they are flush. you may want a damp paper towel to cool 
   and flatten the plastic once they are placed 
   (or just burn your thumb a little if youre kinda dumb like me)

   there should be 4 heat insert holes on the top face of 
   each half (two on each piece) and 2 on the inside of
   the bottom part of each half.

   screw each case half together with 14mm m.2 screws through 
   the top part of each half into the heat inserts on the inside of 
   the bottom part of each half. leave these loose till later.

   install your battery in the gap in each case, 
   install your pcb on top of it.

   slip the acrylic piece on top, and screw the 5mm 
   m.2 screws into the heat inserts through the holes in it. 
   leave em loose till you have them all started, then 
   tighten the bottom screws, then tighten the top screws down evenly.

   flash some firmware on that bad boy!

   note: you will need a bind for SOFT OFF. this keeb 
   shas no physical off switch, but soft off works great.