Openkey cps2-panel

openkey-cps2

• Overview
• Project Status
• Supported Games
• Hardware
  • PCB Manufacturing
  • BOM
  • Assembly
• Programming
  • Hardware
  • Software
  • Testing
• Installation
  • 93646B-3
  • 93646B-4
  • 93646B-5
  • 93646B-6
  • 93646B-7
  • 97691A-3 (all in one)
  • 97691A-4 (all in one)

Overview

This is an opensource/hardware implementation of an on the fly CPS2 key programmer that consists of a board thats soldered onto the CPS2 B board or the CPS2 all-in-one boards.

NOTE: There is a typo on the silkscreen on hardware revision 2022-12-17. The bypass cap is listed as being 100uf, when it should be 100nf. This typo was fixed in hardware revision 2023-01-03, however the pictures below are all from the typo'd 2022-12-17 revision.

Individual boards:

Panel:

Details on how to program a CPS2 key data can be found in Eduardo Cruz's write up and associated firmware.

Details on what to program can be found in MAME's CPS2 driver (the *.key files).

Project Status

PCB: I would consider the design PCB done at this point. I'm open to any input on changes/improvements as this is my first PCB design.

Firmware: Should be fulling working but more testing would be nice. There are a lot of CPS2 games/keys.

Documentation: Work in progress

Supported Games

IMPORTANT: You will want to program the ATtiny before soldering your game jumpers. Specifically jumper #5 is also the programming pin on the ATtiny. Jumping it will tie the pin to ground which will make programming impossible.

Hardware

PCB Manufacturing

For thickness I've been using 1mm, but standard 1.6mm will work fine too.

The board has 2 sets of castellated holes (through holes cut in half on the edge of the board). When ordering make sure you pick the option for castellated holes as they require special processing. If you don't pick the option, your castellated holes will likely be mangled and look like this

Mangled Castellated Holes

I've been using jlcpcb for PCB manufacturing. For them, picking castellated holes adds around a $40 fee to the order. They also seem to have an unwritten limit of 30 PCBs per order that have castellated holes. If you go above this they may reject your order or ask you if its ok to remove the castellated holes option (don't do it!).

If you want more then 30 PCBs or want them assembled you will want to use the panel version of openkey-cps2. More detail regarding this can be found in PANEL.md.

BOM

Assembly

Nothing special here just install the ATtiny and the bypass cap.

IMPORTANT: You will want to program the ATtiny before soldering your game jumpers. Specifically jumper #5 is also the programming pin on the ATtiny. Jumping it will tie the pin to ground which will make programming impossible.

Programming

Hardware

Programming is done with a UPDI programmer. I've been using this one:

Serial UPDI Programmer for ATmega 0-Series, or ATtiny 0-Series or 1-Series, or AVR DA or AVR DB

Note: This programmer (and likely others) has a switch for 3.3V and 5V. Set it to 5V.

The openkey-cps2 programming port consists of 3x pads (VCC, GND, UPDI) that will need to be connected to the programmer. I've been using a short 3 pin female to female IDC cable with pogo pins on one end to do this. Additionally you could probably use something like this if you are going to be programming a bunch.

Of course be sure you properly orient the board so the labeled pads match up. vcc to vcc, gnd to gnd, and updi to updi.

Software

For software I've been using the Arduino IDE with megaTinyCore, which adds support for tinyAVR 0/1/2-Series MCUs.

NOTE: The makers of megaTinyCore currently recommend using Arduino IDE version 1.8.13 for best compatibility. 2.0 definitely does not work!

To install the megaTinyCore you, should just need to add http://drazzy.com/package_drazzy.com_index.json to "Addit ional Boards Manager URLs" in the settings for the Arduino IDE.

From there you need to configure the board/programming settings. I've been using these:

Testing

If you are selling or giving away the openkey-cps2's that you have assembled/programmed its nice to be able to test them first. This section explains how you can test the board without having to install it.

You will need to get your hands on a "1944: The Loop Master (Euro 000620)" in a 93646B-6 or 93646B-7 B board. For mine I just made a conversion using the 1944 mame romset. This specific game is needed because its game jumper 0000 0000.

Additionally you will need to create the following cable

Side A:

Side B:

I would advise making this cable about 24 inches long.

You will note that side "A" is 6 pin female connectors, which break out into a 5 pin female connector and 3 pin female connector "B" side. The "B" side then has pogo pins installed with super glue to keep them steady. Additionally on the 3 pin female connector "B" side, pins 2 and 3 are just connected to each other.

The red wire is +5V, black wire is GND, remaining are data lines.

The "A" side 6 pin connector should be plugged into CN9 on the B board, with +5V on pin 1, and GND on pin 6 as shown.

IMPORTANT: The +5V on the 3 pin female/pogo pin connector will be live when you power on the board, so be extra careful you don't touch anything with it or it could cause a short/damage.

CPS2 boards will hold onto the programmed key data for a while after they have been powered off. So to properly test the openkey-cps2 its best to program the wrong key, verify it breaks the game, then program the correct key to verify it works.

Programming the WRONG key

1. Power on the CPS2 board
2. Connect the 5 pogo pin connector to pins 2-6 of CN9 on the openkey-cps2
3. Connect the 3 pogo pin connector to the UPDI header on openkey-cps2, with the red wire connected to VCC pad, and the pins 2-3 connected to GND and UPDI pads

This should result is a solid color screen, mine is normally purple.

The UPDI pad on the UPDI header is shared with jumper #5 of the game select. By jumping the GND and UPDI pads together its cause the MCU to program game 0000 1000 or 19XX: The War Against Destiny (USA 951207), which is the wrong key for 1944: The Loop Master (Euro 000620)

Programming the CORRECT key

1. Remove both the 5 pogo pin and 3 pogo pin connectors from the openkey-cps2 board
2. Connect the 5 pogo pin connector to pins 2-6 of CN9 on the openkey-cps2
3. Using the 3 pogo pin connector, only connect the red wire pogo pin to the VCC pad on the UPDI header. Do not connect anything to the GND and UPDI pads

By only applying +5V on the VCC pad on UPDI header and NOT jumping the GND/UPDI pads it will cause the MCU to program game 0000 0000.

The game should boot a few seconds later

You do not need to power off the CPS2 board in between programming the wrong/correct key or even between testing multiple openkey-cps2 board. Part of the programming process will reset the game.

Installation

Below are pictures for installing openkey-cps2 on the different cps2 board revisions.

You will notice there are 3 boxes on the board, 2 with solder pads (+5V and GND), and 1 jumper. Within the box is a short hand version of which board revisions need which of them.

• +5V has B-345 which means its needed for revisions 93646B-3, 93646B-4, and 93646B-5
• JUMP has B-67 and A-34 which means it needs to be jumped for revisions 93646B-6, 93646B-7, 97691A-3 and 97691A-4
• GND has B-34 which means its needed for revisions 93646B-3 and 93646B-4

93646B-3

93646B-4

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93646B-3 and 93646B-4 have the same install process.

Identify CN2 on the top side of the CPS2 B Board PCB. This is where openkey-cps2 will be installed.

Your board will likely have the resistor shown in the below picture.

Temporarily desolder the top connection of the resistor, move it out of the way and install openkey-cps2 as shown below. Additionally make note of the red and green arrows/lines as these will be the locations we wire up for +5V and GND.

Re-solder the resistor and wire up the +5V and GND wires as shown below. Then jumper 1 to 8 based on which game you need.

93646B-5

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NOTE: I don't have a 93646B-5, but this is what should be required for the installation.

Identify CN9 on the top side of the CPS2 B Board PCB. The underside of CN9 is what we will be installing openkey-cps2 to.

Top:

Bottom:

Solder the castellated holes on CN9 of openkey-cps2 to the underside pins for CN9 on the CPS2 PCB. Additionally solder a wire going from the +5V pad on the openkey-cps2 to RA2 pin 1 as seen below. Then jumper 1 to 8 based on which game you need.

Installed:

93646B-6

93646B-7

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93646B-6 and 93646B-7 have the same install process.

Identify CN9 on the top side of the CPS2 B Board PCB. The underside of CN9 is what we will be installing openkey-cps2 to.

Top:

Bottom:

Solder the castellated holes on CN9 of openkey-cps2 to the underside pins for CN9 on the CPS2 PCB. Additionally jumper the JUMP pad as pointed out by the green arrow in the picture below. Then jumper 1 to 8 based on which game you need.

Installed

97691A-3 (all in one)

97691A-4 (all in one)

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97691A-3 and 97691A-4 have the same install process.

Identify CN1 on the top side of the CPS2 PCB. It should be next to the memory socket in the corner. The underside of CN1 is what we will be installing openkey-cps2 to.

Top:

Bottom:

openkey-cps2 will sit on top of those 4 resistors seen in the above picture. Solder the castellated holes on CN9 of openkey-cps2 to the underside pins for CN1 on the CPS2 PCB. Additionally jumper the JUMP pad as pointed out by the green arrow in the picture below. Then jumper 1 to 8 based on which game you need.

Installed: